Eveningwear, 1912 and Daywear, 1812

These are examples of eveningwear is from 1912, the year the famed luxury liner 

R.M.S. Titanic departed on her maiden voyage, only to sink tragically in the 

middle of the Atlantic Ocean. When she struck the iceberg, many of the first 

class passengers were in one of the elegant dining rooms, robed in their finest 

evening apparel. These are examples of such vestments.

The first gentleman is sporting the newer, popular black tie tuxedo. Although the 

white tie and tails would always remain a popular option, by the 20^th Century the 

black tie and smoking jacket became a popular, if less formal, alternative to the 

white tie and tails. Like a daytime suit, there are different styles of men’s black tie 

evening dress. This gentleman is wearing a peak-lapel, vested suit. For shoes, he 

wears a pair of oxfords, which by the 20^th Century, was the most popular option 

for men’s dress shoes.

Next is an elegant lady from the 1910s. She wears a fashionable evening gown 

from  the era. The most popular option were an empire waistline, column skirt, 

and half sleeves. By the 20^th Century, the bustle had gone out of style and 

corsets were soon to follow. Thus the gown is a far more relaxed fit than in 

previous eras. She wears her hair up and in a bob, the iconic hairstyle of the 

1910s and the subsequent Roaring Twenties.

Next is another gentleman in a different black tie tuxedo. This style is double 

breasted and shawl-lapel. The double breasted button option was more popular 

among the frock coats, worn when outdoors when en route to or from the balls.

Unlike the previous gentleman, this gentleman retains the more formal men’s 

pumps. This was the last time they remained commonplace and they soon 

became superseded by oxfords. Like the previous gentleman, he completes his 

outfit with a pair of white gloves. Although gloves would fall out of favor with 

men, much sooner than with women, they nonetheless remain a final touch of 

class. 

               

            Finally is another lady, wearing a similar gown and hairstyle. Like the previous 

            lady, she wears a pair of white opera gloves. In the 1910s, these were the 

            staple of women’s evening wear, as they were in previous eras, but in the course 

            of the 20^th Century would become optional. Nevertheless, such accouterments 

            remain a final touch of elegance.

               

            These are examples of daytime fashion a century earlier. These outfits were 

            iconic of the Napoleonic Era in France and the Regency Period in Britain.

First is a gentleman dressed in riding clothes. Riding clothes were popular 

among men, who displayed their love for the great outdoors. For headgear, 

he sports a top hat, which became the symbolic men’s hat of the 19^th 

Century. He wears a tailcoat, which at the time was part of everyday wear 

and was easy to ride in. For neckwear he wears a lace ascot at his neck, 

which were popular at the time. To complete his riding wear, he wears a 

pair of foxhunting boots and a pair of kid leather gloves.

Next are two ladies from the era. The first wears a muslin dress, complete 

with lace patterns. Muslin became enormously popular for women’s dresses 

by the end of the last century, as it was lighter and more comfortable. With 

the fall of the royal family and aristocracy in France, simplicity became the 

new norm. Fashion designers turned to the chitons of Ancient Greece for 

inspiration. The Empire waistline column silhouette dresses of the Regency

became the byproduct of this nostalgic throwback. Over her dress, she 

wears a champagne spencer jacket.

The next lady is wearing a cotton dress of the same style. Like the ladies 

a century later, their dresses are empire waistline, column silhouette. This 

terminology came from the styles of this era in reference to Napoleon and 

the French Empire. She completes her dress with a shawl and, like the 

previous lady, a bonnet, kid gloves, and a parasol.

Finally, is another gentleman of the era. His riding outfit is not much 

different than the preceding gentleman, save for his footwear. He wears the 

fashionable Hungarian Hussar style boots, which were adopted in numerous 

nations' militaries at the time.

Teutonic Knights, 1226 and Praetorian Guard, AD 41

The Teutonic knights were a German order of crusader knights. They were 

founded in 1190 and ran a hospital in the Holy Land. As the crusades in the 

Holy Land wound down, the Teutonic order was transferred to Baltic to help 

defend the Kingdom of Poland against the remaining Pagan tribes of Prussia 

and Lithuania. These knights are pictured in 1226, at the time of the Prussian 

Crusade and three of the Order’s officers are pictured here: the Hochmeister, 

the Ordensmarschall, and a Komptur.

First is Hermann von Salza, the Hochmeister. The Hochmeister, which literally 

means “high master” in German  was the grand master of the order. He was 

elected by all priests, brothers, and half-brothers, knights who did not take their

 full monastic vows, of the Order and usually served for life. Hermann von Salza 

was Hochmeister from 1210 until his death in 1239. During his time as master, 

he oversaw the annexation of Prussia into the Order’s Land. He was also a skilled 

diplomat, who helped resolve a conflict between Pope Gregory IX and 

Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II.

               

Next is the Ordensmarschall, or Marshal of the Teutonic Order. The 

Ordensmarschall was in command of the headquarters at Königsburg 

and responsible for all logistical matters. He was one of five Großgebietiger, 

or high-ranking officers selected to serve by the Hochmeister.

Lastly, is one of the lowest rank of the order, a Komptur. He was the regional 

commander of a small patch of land, or commandry. With the Teutonic conquest 

of the Baltic region, the Order tried to colonize the area by settling Germans 

there. And from the time of the Prussian Crusade until the end of World War II, 

Prussia existed as a German nation.

All three of the knights are depicted wearing full chain mail armor, developed in 

the  previous  century and remained the mainstay until the introduction of plates

later in the 13^th Century. For helmets they wear ornate horned great helms. 

The great helm was the primary choice for knights in the thirteenth century. These 

adornments were depicted in the manuscripts of the time period as being worn 

for tournaments. Whether they were worn into Battle is debatable, either they 

were deemed impractical, or they were worn as a psychological weapon, 

designed to intimidate their opponents.

The Roman Emperor’s personal bodyguard, the Praetorian Guard were 

Rome’s crack fighting men. In peace, they protected the city of Rome and 

the Emperor’s palace. They were in fact, the only Roman military units 

allowed in the city of Rome itself, during the Imperial period. In war, they 

accompanied the Emperor on his campaigns and served as elite units of 

infantry and cavalry. They would also, if they felt the emperor had become 

too tyrannical, assassinate him.

These guardsmen are depicted in A.D. 41, when they assassinated the 

despised Emperor Caligula. First is the Praetorian Prefect, the commander 

of the Praetorian Guard. He has a knife drawn, although according to the 

varying sources, the attempt was executed by the co-prefect, a tribune, 

and some centurions, and are described using their swords. The Prefect’s 

armor is depicted in a similar manner to a legatus, the commander of a 

legion, and other high-ranking generals in the Roman army. He wears a 

brass plated lorica musculata, or muscle cuirass over a leather subarmalis,

as well as a matching helmet and greaves, or lower leg guards.

Next, is a Centurion, commander of a century. Although a century 

numbered 100 soldiers in the Republic, as its name suggests, by the time 

of the Empire, that number was reduced to 80. The rank of the Centurion 

is denoted by his sideways crest and his vine stick, which served two 

purposes: to point and beat insubordinate soldiers. For armor, Centurions 

preferred the older lorica hamata, or chain mail, like the other officers, he 

wears a leather subarmalis.

Finally, are two ordinary guardsmen. Like other legionaries of their time, 

they wear the newly introduced lorica segmentata, made of overlapping 

iron plates. They differ from ordinary Roman legionaries however, with 

their shields. While the other legionaries carried the newer square scutum,

the Praetorians retained the more traditional oval shape, dating back to 

the manipular organization during the Republic. Because of the decorations 

found on the Praetorians’ shields, it was believed that they were black or 

dark blue, depicting night sky. This has been widely disproved and they 

more likely would have been red, the most likely color of the Roman 

soldier’s uniform.

All of the Praetorians are depicted wearing armor, however while inside 

the walls of Rome, the Praetorians were disallowed from wearing armor.

They simply wore their tunic and carried a sword. This harkened back 

to the tradition of Republican Rome, where the city was off limits to its 

legions, lest the military vies for power which Caesar broke by marching 

on Rome. The Praetorian Guards would not always follow this rule, 

and many usurper emperors were former Praetorian officers.

Daywear, 1946 and Eveningwear, 1888

First, is a basic gentleman’s suit from the 1940s. This gentleman is sporting a navy blue pinstripe three-button, three-piece suit. All of these styles were popular in the 1930s and ‘40s. The jacket has peak lapels, which were the preferred option in the era. The man is also sporting a fedora, the iconic men’s hat from the first half of the 20^th Century. He is wearing a wide tie, as was the style in the 1940s to match his jacket’s lapels. For shoes he is wearing rather conservative black oxfords.

He is also wearing a pair of grey dress gloves, which although were no longer as popular for gentlemen  as for ladies by the 1940s, remained worn especially by older men and in colder weather.

Next is a fashionable lady from the decade. She is wearing a blue sheath dress, which in the 1940s was worn as every day wear. Like any modern lady, she is carrying a matching clutch bag to carry her portable make up kit. She is wearing a fur pillbox hat with a peacock feather, one of many ladies’ hats styles in in the 1940s. For shoes she is wearing a pair of peep-toe pumps, which were iconic footwear of the 1940s. For a final touch of class, she wears a pair of white gloves, which like the hats, were quintessential to 1940s ladies’ fashion.

Next is another gentleman wearing a different suit style. This suit includes a double breasted jacket, which was a popular alternative to the three piece suit in the 1940s. Like the previous gentleman, he wears a pinstripe and peak lapel style suit. Unlike the previous gentleman his footwear is trendier. He wears a pair of fashionable spectator or swing shoes, which were popularized by both gangster movies and jazz musicians. 

Finally, another chic lady from the era. This lady is wearing a peplum jacket suit, which were enormously popular at the time. In the 1940s, suits were worn as everyday attire, but during World War II, rationing made it difficult to acquire clothing. Under these circumstances, many practical ladies opted to wear suits instead of gowns to formal occasions such as weddings and evening parties. Like the previous stylish lady, she wears a hat and gloves and carries a clutch bag. Her hat is a cartwheel with a medium brim, which was remains a timeless classic style. Finally, like the previous lady she also wears a pair of chic peep-toe pumps.

Now, back to the preceding century:

First is a gentleman wearing the apex of men’s formal attire: the white tie and 

tails. This style first became popular in the Victorian era and to this day remains 

the top option for men’s formal attire. It consists of a black tailcoat, matching 

trousers, white bow tie, white waistcoat, and for a final touch of class: a pair of 

white gloves. He also wears a pair of recently-popularized oxford shoes.

Next is an elegant lady of the era. She wears an off-the-shoulder bustle gown, 

which was the norm in the 1870s and ‘80s. She completes her gown with a 

pair of above-the-elbow white gloves, which were popular during the regency 

and became popular again by the 1880s. She also carries a feather fan with her. 

Women carried fans to balls for two reasons: first, to cool themselves, as some 

of the dances could be quite tiresome. Second, to conceal gossip.

Next is another elegant lady, from the era. She wears a similar style ball gown, 

also complete with white opera gloves.

Finally is another gentleman from the era. His outfit is not much different than 

the previous  gentleman. The only differences are the waistcoat and shoes. He 

wears a black waistcoat, instead of a white one. In the late 19^th Century, black 

tie attire first became popular. According to English folklore, it was popularized 

by the Prince of Wales and future King Edward VII, who wore a black tie instead 

of a white one to dinner one night. Although black tie attire would become the 

mainstream for men’s formal dress by the following century, the white tie and tails 

remained a popular option until then. For shoes, he is wearing a pair of traditional 

pumps or men’s court shoes. These fell out of style by the following century.

Since those who viewed my sketchbook liked the lady in the magenta ball gown 

so much, I decided to give her a scene of her own.

So I drew Waltz at the Corinthia:

The Iron Brigade, 1863 and English Knights, 1346

The Iron Brigade was one of the most reputable units on either side of the American Civil War.

Composed of five western state volunteer regiments: the 24^th Michigan, 19^th Indiana, 2^nd, 6^th, and 7^th Wisconsin Regiments, the Iron Brigade was called what it was because of its reputation as one of the most formidable units of the Army of the Potomac. Perhaps their most famous act was being one of the first Union infantry units thrust into action on the first day at the Battle of Gettysburg.

They were deployed by the Corps commander himself: Major General John Fulton Reynolds, pictured above. Faced with stiff opposition from the Tennessee and Alabama regiments,

Reynolds railed the Iron Brigade as they engaged in fierce forest combat. "For God’s sake, forwards!" he yelled and then fell dead from his horse,  a bullet in the back of the neck.

General Reynolds was the highest ranking officer on either side killed at the Battle of Gettysburg.

His death remains shrouded in mystery. Although it is commonly upheld that he was killed by a Confederate sharpshooter, it is also possible that he was killed by a stray bullet from either side.

In fact at every Gettysburg reunion, at least one Confederate veteran would claim that he was the one who shot and killed General Reynolds.

The next personality pictured is the commander of the 24^th Michigan at Gettysburg, Colonel Henry Andrew Morrow.  Although the Iron Brigade did manage to drive back the Tennessee and Alabama regiments, they were pushed back into the woods by the Virginia and North Carolina regiments. 

After the first three standard bearers of the 24^thMichigan fell, Colonel Morrow himself picked up the tattered battle standard and rallied his men, as he is pictured doing here. In fact a private, William Kelly was so concerned for the life of his commanding officer that he took them from him and bore them until he himself was killed. Despite the heroic action of Colonel Morrow, heavy casualties and pressure on the flanks eventually forced him to withdraw. During the withdrawal Colonel Morrow himself was wounded. He successfully reached the safety of the city of Gettysburg, but the city fell to the Confederate forces later that day, and the injured Morrow was captured. The confrontation between the 24^th Michigan and the 26^th North Carolina was in fact the bloodiest regimental engagement of the bloodiest battle of the Civil War.

Above are normal soldiers from the various regiments of the brigade. Notice that the Iron Brigade soldiers preferred the wide-brimmed Hardee hats over the narrow-brimmed kepis and similar-looking forage caps. Wide-brimmed hats were especially popular among the western regiments.

The insignia on the Hardee hat is a bugle to represent an infantry regiment. The bugle was previously associated with the light infantry, but by the time of the Civil War, with advancements in rifling and updates in infantry tactics, all infantry were in essence light infantry.

You will also notice that one private is wearing a knapsack, while another is wearing a rolled blanket wrapped as a bandolier to carry his things. Some soldiers found this simpler solution more practical.

The sergeant and corporal are not wearing either,  as they were normally removed before battle.

I did overlook two things with this sketch, regarding the dress of the Iron Brigade. Although I could not possibly fail to remember their iconic black hats, with exception of the sergeant, I portrayed the Iron Brigade soldiers in short sack coats, instead of the longer frock coats which remained popular in the regiment. Also, none of the soldiers are wearing canvas gaiters, which remained popular among the Iron Brigade.

The second entry is of two English knights, who fought with Edward, the Black Prince of Wales at the Battle of Crecy in 1346: John de Vere, the Seventh Earl of Oxford and Sir Thomas Holland.

During the Battle of Crecy, the right flank under the Prince of Wales was under enormous pressure and Prince Edward sent a group of knights, including de Vere to ask his father for reinforcements.

King Edward sent his famous reply "that they suffer him this day to win his spurs, 

for if God be pleased, I will this journey be his, and the honor thereof, and to 

them that be about him." Commonly abridged to "Let the boy win his spurs."

Both knights were in command of about a hundred foot soldiers, and were similar in essence to modern army captains, except, that knights fought separately as their own unit of heavy cavalry.

The Battle of Crecy, however, was an exception. The English knights, having learned painful lessons from the War of Scottish Independence, dismounted and fought shoulder-to-shoulder with the common foot soldiery. This defensive tactic worked wonderfully and the impudent mounted French knights, despite their audacity and élan, could not break the English lines.

They are nonetheless depicted on horseback for two reasons: first, the English knights, still rode into battle on horseback, as did some of the foot soldiers who could afford it. Second, the commanding English knights probably still fought on horseback, so as to be seen in battle.

Both knights are wearing suits of plate armor, which were new at the time. Since plate armor was expensive to manufacture, and the technology at the time was limited, these early suits  of plate armor, like many in the 14^th century, are reinforced by chain mail, or in the case of Holland’s, brigandine armor, which was canvas armor reinforced by small plates. Mail and brigandine armor also served to cover weak points, such as joints left exposed by the half-plate armor.

Both knights are wearing the open-faced bascinet. There were two types of helmets available to knights in the 14^th Century: the open-faced bascinet and the great helm, left over from the last century. The bascinet was probably preferred by knights in battle, as it was less restrictive to its wearer’s sight. The helm, obviously was preferred for jousting, because of the greater protection provided to the wearer’s face. Later in the 14^th Century, a visor would be added, to provide protection in battle.

Both wear surcoats bearing their coat-of-arms, as on their shields, over their armor. The surcoat was used from the prevalence of mail armor in the 12^th Century until the prevalence of plate armor in the 15^th century. de Vere is armed with a battle-ax, which could penetrate armor, due to its wedge blade and spiked tips to stab through any chinks in an opponent’s armor. Holland is armed with a broad sword, the primary weapon of a knight. Since armor offered decent protection against swords, most knightly swordfights were in essence brawls, where both knights would attempt to pummel their opponent into submission. Today, one can only imagine what these knights would have been through. Fortunately for the young Prince Edward, he did win his spurs that day.